Saturday, February 1, 2014
Florentine T-bone Steak (Bistecca alla Fiorentina)
A favorite of Tuscan cuisine, Bistecca alla Fiorentina consists of a thickly cut and very large T-bone steak grilled over a wood or charcoal fire traditionally served very rare.
As early recipe dictates Bistecca alla Fiorentina must be: 1-1.5 kg; 5-6 cm thick; 3-5 min grilling per side (flipping it only once) and 5-7 min vertically standing on its bone so as to make the blood drain out.
Few months ago, when i heard In Shanghai some Chinese friends went to a small village near Florence to enjoy the famous Florentine Steak, I told myself it is a time I must go and see it with my own eyes. It is a very carnivore meal, lots of rare meat, not for everyone, thus I begged my father to accompany in this journey to the best known butcher in Chianti area: Macelleria Cecchini (self labeled “Macelleria con Cucina” = “Butcher Shop with Kitchen”).
What a lustful experience!
At Cecchini’s gate there is a marble plate to commemorate the funeral of the Florentine Steak. In fact in the early 2000’s,due to a large increase of the disease called then “crazy cow”, the European Union banned the sale of cow meat steak with the bone (removal of the vertebral column with spinal cord of cows before slaughter was required). After the end of the emergency, the ban was lifted. On 1 January 2006, the Florentine Steak took back his place on the tables and on the racks after 5 years of absence.
To reach the restaurant on the first floor you must go through Cecchini’s butcher’s shop. You can seat only if make a reservation, you must be on time because everybody eats at the same time at the only large common table, where there are plenty of fresh vegetable for dipping, water and of course bottles of Chianti wines. Note that nobody will ever asks you how would you like the meat, it is served only “rare”.
According the schedule, one of the 3 fixed menu (and sometimes a vegetarian menu) is available.
My father and I booked on Saturday lunch on which the serve the Officina della Bistecca menu, according to their website: “The Officina della Bistecca is a convivial way of answering the difficult question ofnthe perfect way of cooking Her Majesty the Bistecca alla Fiorentina and Her Sisters the Costata and the Panzanese steak … Guests are asked to arrive on time and with an empty stomach. The Officina is not recommended to those of little appetite.”
Let’s get to the heart of the matter!
Believe us, so full we were that we could barely walk after lunch. Needed to go for a walk before sitting in the car and drive back home, we ended to Panzano village Duomo and we gave thanks to God for the glorious meal.
MANZO (COW)
11 Bistecca Panzanese
10 Costata alla Fiorentina
12 Bistecca Fiorentina
12 Filetto
11 Bistecca Imperiale
13 Brasato al midollo
5 Sushi del Chianti
6 Arrosto Fiorentino
3 Sugo Fiamme d’inferno
14 Cosimino
2 Peposo notturno
1 Lingua salmistrata
1 Musetto
SUINO (PORK)
5 Scamerita al finocchio
4 7 Salsicce all’aglio
2 Burro del Chianti
4 7 Finocchiona
3 Guanciale
2 3 4 Arista in Porchetta
1 Soprassata Medicea
6 7 Tonno del Chianti
7 Pasticcio rustico
8 Pieducci all’aceto
[from www.wikipedia.it: http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bistecca_alla_fiorentina]
Sourced from either the Chianina or Maremmana breeds of cattle, the traditional steak has a “T-shaped” bone with meat on each side: tenderloin steak on the larger side, strip steak on the other side the bone.
The meat - previously matured for at least two weeks in cold storage - at the time of cooking should be at room temperature. The cut is about 1-1.5 kg, height of about 5-6 cm.
Using a rich and alive charcoal, preferably oak and olive trees coal, no flames though. Should be avoided electric plates, gas and electric grill, baking stone, etc.
The meat should be positioned at the beginning very close to the charcoal, so that it forms a crust as quickly as possible and keeping the juice inside (the so-called Maillard reaction), then after the first minute should be raised to a more gentle temperature.
Placed over the grill strictly without seasoning, fundamental operation to prevent the hardening, the steak has to be turned only once, cooking it about 3/5 minutes per part, not more. Finally It should be cooked “standing” on the bone for 5/7 minutes until blood disappears (the steak should be so thick to stand alone).
Perfect cooking is the secret of this dish: the meat must be colored on the outside and soft and juicy on the inside. For this reason it should not be turned with the aid of “forks” or any other cooking tool which can penetrate the meat and breaking its crust, it must instead be turned gently by hands using suitable gloves.